Exploring Guldbæk Vingård
Guldbæk's wine at the Danish-Swedish tasting at Restaurant No.2
In the northern Himmerland region, Guldbæk Vingård is redefining what it means to produce wine in Denmark. The cool climate, combined with the team’s approach and dedication to sustainability, has made Guldbæk an example of the potential for Danish wine. I had the privilege of speaking with Kim Thrysøe, who shared insights into how Guldbæk’s location, philosophy, and story have shaped their wines.
This article is part of a mini-serie focusing on Nordic wine based on the small talks I had with the wine makers at the DSF Members Event: a Regional Danish & Swedish Wine Tasting. The event featured wines from Vejrhøj Vingård, By Stokkebye, Vingården i Klagshamn, Guldbæk Vingård, and Fruktstereo.
The Influence of Guldbæk’s Northern Location
"The placement of Guldbæk, in northern Himmerland, has a profound impact on the style and character of our wines," Kim begins. "The cool climate here allows for a slow and stable ripening of the grapes, which results in wines with a fresh acidity and a clean, crisp fruit character."
Kim explains how their location naturally guides their winemaking philosophy. "Our northern climate sets limits on what we can and should produce. You won’t find us trying to make heavy reds or rich whites with pineapple or banana notes. Instead, we focus on wines that are crisp and elegant, reflecting the terroir and climate we work with."
Solaris at Guldbæk. Photo Guldbæk.
Approach to Winemaking
When asked what sets Guldbæk apart from other Danish vineyards, Kim highlights their balance between tradition and modern techniques. "Our approach is a combination of modern methods and respect for traditional craftsmanship. We’re not part of the natural wine wave, but we aim to minimize intervention in the cellar so that the wines can express themselves naturally. At the same time, we prioritize precision and attention to detail in every phase of production."
“We are currently working with Rinot (Czech Republic) and Pinotin (a Valentin Blattner variety) to explore their potential.”
This philosophy is supported by the expertise of Jess Weaver, a winemaker from New Zealand, and Kilian Kleine-Tebbe from Germany’s Franken Weinworks. "Having Jess and Kilian on our team for years has had a significant impact on both our style and methods," Kim notes. "Their knowledge has helped us strike the perfect balance between predictability and authenticity in our wines."
Experimentation
Guldbæk is open to experimenting, shown by their test plots for new grape varieties.. "We are currently working with Rinot (Czech Republic) and Pinotin (a Valentin Blattner variety) to explore their potential," Kim shares. "It’s an exciting process to see how these varieties adapt to our climate and what they can contribute to our portfolio."
Kim Thrysøe to the right. Photo:Guldbæk
The Role of Terroir
When discussing the influence of terroir, Kim offers a nuanced perspective. "If you think of terroir as soil, we don’t yet have enough experience to give a definitive answer. However, our impression so far is that cultivation practices, like regenerative methods, and the microclimate play a bigger role than the soil itself in shaping our wines."
A Winter Storm
"The vineyard’s start in 2005 was actually the result of a winter storm," Kim recounts. "A large forest area was destroyed, leaving room for us to plant vineyards. That moment, along with chance encounters, like meeting Jess Weaver, has shaped who we are today."
Challenges of the Danish Market
Operating a vineyard in Denmark hasn’t been without its challenges. "It’s been surprising to see how cautious and conservative the Danish market, especially restaurants, has been in embracing Danish wine," Kim admits. "While interest is growing now, it’s been a slow process, which can be frustrating. Add to that the fact that many Danish producers are hobbyists, and it’s clear why establishing Danish wine as a professional industry has taken time."
Looking Ahead
"Our goal has always been to craft wines that reflect the unique character of this region," Kim concludes. "With every bottle, we hope to showcase the potential of Danish wine and inspire more people to explore what we have to offer."
