From Vineyard to Heart: Cascina Val del Prete
Mario Roagna. Photo Ronja Bo Gustavsson
Set in the rolling hills of Roero, Cascina Val del Prete is a family-run winery with a history and a deep connection to the land. Over three generations, the Roagna family has dedicated themselves to crafting wines that reflect the unique character of their vineyards. During my visit, I met Mario and Maria Roagna, who shared their inspiring story of tradition, hard work, and love for winemaking.
Driving from Turin airport, we made our way to Cascina Val del Prete in Priocca, Roero. I had been in contact with Giovanni Roagna, who became the third-generation winemaker in 2010, taking over from his parents, Mario and Maria. Giovanni was in the United States during my visit but had warmly invited me to meet his parents. There was one small challenge, he noted: his parents didn’t speak English—only French and Italian—and I am not fluent in either.
Unfazed, I thought, why not let the dance of gestures and body language bridge the gap, and, of course, rely on a few translating apps to smooth the way?
Cascina Val del Prete. Photo Ronja Bo Gustavsson
As we ascended the small road to Cascina Val del Prete, the farmhouse came into view, framed by the slopes of the surrounding vineyards. Upon arrival, we were greeted enthusiastically by four lively dogs, followed closely by Mario and Maria.
The farmhouse showed charm, with fresh linens hanging to dry on the long balcony at the front. The atmosphere felt deeply familiar, reminding me of my own upbringing in a small province on Gotland, Sweden.
Maria and Mario embodied the image of Italian family winemakers: warm, straightforward, and deeply grounded.
Mario showing me a picture of his parants Bartolomeo and Carolina Roagna. Photo: Ronja Bo Gustavsson
I clipped a small microphone onto Mario to record our conversation, joking that he was now a pop star ready to sing. While I hoped it would help with translation later, to my surprise, we found our own ways to communicate. Through pointing, gesturing, a mix of words and expressions, and with a little help from Maria, we managed to bridge the gap.
Roots in Roero: The Wines of Cascina Val del Prete
In the hills of Roero, Cascina Val del Prete, or “Valley of the Priest,” stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of family, craftsmanship, and respect for the land. Founded in 1977 by Bartolomeo and Carolina Roagna, the winery spans three generations of dedication.Today, it is run by Giovanni Roagna, who continues to honor the legacy of his grandfather and father, Mario, while bringing his own energy to the estate.
“The last five years have been the driest I’ve ever experienced in my lifetime.”) However, this year brought some relief. “Quest’anno è andato bene,” he added. (“This year was good.”)”
Sponsor: Distinto
Nebbiolo and Beyond:
Discovering Cascina Val del Prete
Mario’s pride in their signature wine was unmistakable. “Questo è un Nebbiolo tipico della Roero,” he said. (“This is a typical Nebbiolo from Roero.”) The wine embodies the balance of acidity and tannins that Cascina Val del Prete has become known for, offering a vibrant acidity, fruit-forward experience that reflects both the terroir and the family’s dedication to their craft.
The story of Cascina Val del Prete began when Bartolomeo Roagna purchased the property during a period when many were abandoning agriculture. His vision and determination led him to plant the first vineyards of Barbera and Nebbiolo on the estate. Mario recounted this pivotal moment: “Questa è una vecchia vigna piantata da mio papà nel 1977.” (“This is an old vineyard planted by my father in 1977.”) Over time, Bartolomeo expanded the property, adding Arneis, a native Roero grape, and embracing sustainable farming practices.
While the family has embraced organic farming since 2013, nature has presented challenges. Mario reflected on the impact of climate change, saying: “Gli ultimi cinque anni sono stati i più secchi che abbia mai vissuto nella mia vita.” (“The last five years have been the driest I’ve ever experienced in my lifetime.”) However, this year brought some relief. “Quest'anno è andato bene,” he added. (“This year was good.”)
“When I smell this, I can sense the aroma of the land.”
From Truffles to Terroir
Cascina Val del Prete’s dedication to the environment goes beyond winemaking. The estate is also home to truffles, a prized natural treasure. Mario shared the importance of their presence: “I tartufi sono importanti per il suolo. Non usiamo prodotti chimici, e questo aiuta a mantenere la biodiversità e la vitalità della terra.” (“Truffles are important for the soil. We don’t use chemicals, and this helps to maintain biodiversity and the vitality of the land.”)
Max the truffle dog. Photo Ronja Bo Gustavsson
Mario introduced me to their loyal dog, Max, who had uncovered truffles earlier that morning. “Max è molto vecchio, ma ancora un campione,” he said with affection. (“Max is very old, but still a champion.”) Holding a freshly found truffle, Mario added, “Quando lo annuso, sento il profumo del territorio.” (“When I smell this, I can sense the aroma of the land.”)
Alba Truffle. Photo Ronja Bo Gustavsson
A Farmer’s Philosophy
Giovanni, who joined the family business in 2010, has carried these values forward while infusing new energy into the winery. His father, Mario, shared the advice he gave him upon taking over: “Filosofia da contadino, non pensare all’America, non Hollywood.” (“A farmer’s philosophy: don’t think about America or Hollywood.”) This humble approach underscores the family’s commitment to authenticity and their connection to the land.
Sustainability and Soul
The Roero region itself is integral to the winery’s identity. The soil, rich in clay, limestone, and marine fossils, lends the wines structure and elegance. Giovanni’s dedication to sustainability ensures that biodiversity thrives in the vineyard. Grass and wild herbs grow freely between the vines, helping to prevent erosion and enrich the soil. Mario highlighted this balance: “La giusta dose di letame, l’uso sapiente delle sovesci e la corretta gestione del terreno sono alcune delle pratiche che guidano il nostro percorso.” (“The right dosage of manure, the wise use of cover crops, and the proper management of soil are some of the practices that guide our path.”)
In the cellar, Cascina Val del Prete adheres to a non-interventionist philosophy. “La vinificazione è poco interventista,” Mario explained. (“The winemaking is low intervention.”) Indigenous yeasts drive fermentation, macerations last up to 30 days, and aging is carefully managed to enhance the wine’s potential. Their Nebbiolo Riserva, for instance, spends up to three years in wood, allowing the wine to develop complexity while preserving the unique expression of Roero’s terroir.
Mario also reflected on a broader trend within the region. “In questa regione ci sono tanti giovani produttori che sono tornati a lavorare la terra, non in modo industriale.” (“In this area, many young producers have returned to working the land, not in an industrial way.”) This resurgence aligns with a growing global movement toward small-scale, sustainable winemaking.
Photo: Ronja Bo Gustavsson
Sipping their Nebbiolo, I felt the story of Cascina Val del Prete unfold—a story of family, passion, and respect for nature. Giovanni, like his father and grandfather before him, has embraced the philosophy that each vintage is unique. As Mario summarized: “Ogni anno è diverso, riflette il clima e le condizioni uniche di quella stagione, ma lo stile rimane coerente.” (“Every year is different, reflecting the unique climate and conditions of the season, but the style remains consistent.”)
Cascina Val del Prete is more than a winery—it’s a tradition in Roero’s wild nature. Under Giovanni’s stewardship, it continues to thrive for tradition, sustainability, and the profound connection between people and the land.
